The trend for British food is one that won’t go away. There are so many of these places opening in London right now – the English Market restaurant, Mason & Taylor, Heston Blumenthal’s new place at the Mandarin, Brawn… The critics are having collective orgasms over them. Me, not so much. Call me a total girl, but I don’t want to eat pickled ox tongue or grilled bone marrow. And I thought the whole point of it not being 1942 was that we didn’t have to.